The simplistic motor mount I made for my electric bicycle (which consisted mostly of me bolting a motor to my wire basket and holding the basket away from the axle with a piece of PVC pipe) had been working well for five months. Until, that is, I ran over a particularly large pothole and the chain fell off. I took the hint that the PVC pipe and wire basket were not exactly up to my exacting quality standards and decided it was time to make something better.

I decided that the main problem was that my wire basket was not rigid enough, so my construction material of choice remained 3/4″ schedule 40 PVC pipe. This time I used TWO upright supports, one on either side of the axle and some C shaped metal shelf brackets bolted to my motor mount. (I also used PVC elbows and pipe to join the top of the supports.) This picture gives a good view of how the whole thing fits together. I am still using a hose clamp connecting it to my wire basket for left-to-right stability, but this produces much less stress on the basket, and a little left-to-right wiggle is unlikely to allow the chain to come off the gears.
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My electric bicycle has a motor that draws up to 450 watts (if I drive it over its nominal 250 watt rating), and the batteries have only 5AH (approx 120 watt hours) total capacity. Keeping in mind that I should only discharge the lead acid batteries to 50% (approx 60 watt hours) this indicates that I can only use the motor at full blast for eight minutes.

But, since I only use the motor to help go up hills and provide extra acceleration, and most of the time it is not drawing the full 450 watts, I actually have a much longer run-time. I deliberately chose to put small batteries on the bike both to keep the weight down, and to allow them to be recharged using solar cells (8 watts) in a reasonable amount of time. Under full sun, hypothetically the solar cells will generate 60 watts of power to recharge the batteries from 50% to 100% charge in 7.5 hours. In actual practice, it takes more like 10 hours of sunlight, usually around two days.

How does this work in actual practice? Here are some examples.
Early Saturday morning I biked a 2.8 mile round trip to the post office, using the motor lightly. I left the bike outside all day and it was recharged by 4pm. On Sunday afternoon I rode the bike to a friends house ( a 2.5 mile round trip). Because it was overcast and raining, no charging occurred before I then rode the bike another 0.9 miles to the Marta station (up hill) and left it all day. (At this point the batteries had been used for 3.4 miles of travel without charging.) When I returned at the end of the day and rode the bike home (another 0.9 miles) it was not fully charged (due to the ride home) but the voltage had gone up significantly. After leaving it out in the sun for another day the batteries were fully charged.

In general usage, I typically only use the bike two or three days a week (rain, schedules matching up, etc) so the two day charging time fulfills my needs. If the bike was my only means of transportation, I’d probably have to supplement the solar charging with a grid tied charger, or install much larger solar panels at a fixed location to charge the bike.

Ever since I mounted an electric motor to the front wheel of my
bicycle I have been keeping a plastic bag over the motor with a clothespin whenever the bike is parked. This does a decent job of keeping rain out of the motor, but the process of uncovering and covering the motor takes extra time. In an effort to make a permanent rain cover for the motor, I built a tool (mold form) out of wood and used a vacuuform machine to shape a piece of plastic over it.
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An electric powered bike makes it easier to go up hills, and can turn a ride to the train station from a workout into a commute. Typically however, the batteries need to be plugged in to charge after your trip. Although electricity is cheap, this does require that you have removable batteries (or wheel your bike into the house or bring a charger outside). I decided to use the sun to recharge my bike, seeing as how I would be parking my bike outside at a train station all day. This way, it can be fully charged and ready for the ride home when I return. Continue reading →

In case I need to commute home after dark on my electric bike, I added a front headlight (5 watt MR11 halogen) and a rear tail light (Red LED tail light for “off-road” use). The front headlight enclosure was designed to be used on a bike, and included a nice mounting bracket and enough cord that I could harvest some to run to the rear tail light. Black zip-ties hold the wires to the frame. The rear tail light had no enclosure, so I soldered the wire directly to it and epoxied it into the back of my rear rack. Both lights run off of only one of the 12v batteries through a 5A blade fuse and an automotive switch mounted under the battery pack. Continue reading →

Electric bikes are expensive. Even if you buy the cheapest electric bike you can find on deep discount at walmart, it costs $300. (Formerly $400 before they deeply discounted it.) I decided to build my own out of surplus parts and things I could buy at the local Ace Hardware for less than $300. (Mostly, for the fun of the build.)

So, I bought a surplus motor controller, handlebar mounted throttle, and a 250 watt electric motor. I bolted the motor to the front of my used $20 bike, built a battery holder out of PVC pipes, and made a vacuum formed cover.
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After building a PVC pipe battery holder for my electric bike, I used a vacuum form machine to make a polystyrene battery cover. I built up a cheap tool form using cardboard (which turned out to be too week, but it was quick).

Vacuum form complete

Bolting a DC motor to the front basket of a bike and running a chain to the front wheel takes care of the mechanical linkage needed to make an electric powered bicycle, but you also need to provide power to the motor, and control that power in some way.
Luckily, the same place that sold me the 250 watt motor also sold a 40 amp speed controler. (It cost $33, or more than any single other part of my e-bike project.)

The speed controler is controlled by most standard e-bike throttles, such as this one from Currie Technologies. I also attached two 12v 5AH batteries in series to provide 24 volts. Because I calculated that my 250 watt motor running at 24 volts would draw approximately 10 amps, (250/24 = 10.4), I added a 15 amp fuse to the circuit. (The first 15A fuse was replaced by a second 15 amp fuse after it saved my speed controler from damage when I accidentally reversed the polarity on the power…)
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I purchased a surplus 250 watt motor with a matching wheel hub and 90 tooth sprocket. The motor has an 11 tooth sprocket, and both the motor’s sprocket and the hub’s 90 tooth sprocket are designed for #25 motor chain, which is slightly smaller than standard bicycle chain.

To get the hub and 90 tooth sprocket on the wheel, I had to remove the existing hub and rebuild the wheel on the new hub. Luckily the two hubs were close enough in size that I could re-use the existing spokes. Following the instructions on Sheldon Brown’s website, and also refering to this website I was able to re-spoke the wheel.
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I purchased a surplus Currie Technologies “Diagnostic” throttle. (Which includes 3 LED’s labeled as 1/3, 2/3 and full charge indicators) It has a six pin (7 cable) connector with no pin-out diagram.

Currie Technologies diagnostic throttle

After opening it up, it appears that the blue, black, and red wires are connected to the throttle sensor itself, while the other four wires (White, Gray, Yellow, Green) connect to the LED circuit board.

The pin-out ordering is as follows, from the bottom of my picture up:

1. Red/White (Throttle/LED, sharing a pin, + voltage)
2. Black (to throttle, I assume Ground)
3. Blue (from throttle, I assume signal)
4. Green (Full LED)
5. Yellow (2/3 full LED)
6. Gray (1/3 full LED)

I connected the Red/Black/Blue wires to a motor speed controller that had a 3 wire throttle connection (matching them up to the Red/Black/Green wires from the controller) and it worked great!

The LED pin-out is as follows:
White (positive / Vcc)
Gray – 1/3 empty LED
Yellow – 2/3 full LED
Green – Full LED

Note that I was able to get the LED’s to light up with a 3V source, but I believe their forward voltage is less than 3V and you should use a current limited supply so that you do not burn the LED’s out.