{"id":5807,"date":"2022-02-13T09:28:22","date_gmt":"2022-02-13T14:28:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.summet.com\/blog\/?p=5807"},"modified":"2022-02-13T09:35:22","modified_gmt":"2022-02-13T14:35:22","slug":"glowforge-lid-hinge-separation-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.summet.com\/blog\/2022\/02\/13\/glowforge-lid-hinge-separation-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Glowforge lid \/ hinge separation (2nd unit)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Back in January of 2020 I received a replacement glowforge ($500 repair & shipping cost) that they swapped for my orginal kickstarter model because I needed the laser tube replaced.\u00a0 You might remember that with the original kickstarter model I also had issues with the front handle coming unglued<\/a> from the glass lid, as well as the rear hinges coming unglued from the glass lid<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, the glass lid detaching (from the left rear hinge this time) issue has presented itself on this unit as well. Currently, only the left side has detached, but I’m worried that the whole joint will fail if I open\/close the lid more.<\/p>\n

With the lid closed, this presents as the left side rear being slightly raised, and the left front not going all the way down.<\/p>\n

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You can really see the gap most obviously when in the process of lifting the lid. (Look at the gap that is between the silver bar bolted to the left hand black hinge and the glass above it…now go compare that to the photo below where I have it supported by a clamp to see the difference.)<\/p>\n

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I’m afraid to open\/close the lid as I’m sure every motion is weakening the rest of the joint, so for now I’m just leaving it open with a small clamp on it to try and make sure the rest of the glue joint doesn’t have pressure on it.<\/p>\n

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Here is a video I shot when opening the lid.
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