120 Volt Charging Plug

A 240 volt cable plugged into a truck's gas cap area.

Our “new” electric pickup came with a 240 volt twist-lock connector where the gas cap would be. This is great for plugging into a 240 volt outlet, such as used by an electric range or clothes dryer, but we are primarily charging it with a 120v convenience charger. (So called because 120v outlets are more convenient to find. It actually takes about twice as long to charge using 120v so from a time standpoint it is less convenient.)

I decided to add a second 120 volt plug behind the fuel port door so that I could plug in either voltage cable. Continue reading

Building a PVC Vacuum Reservoir

a foot of 3" PVC pipe with end caps painted black.
The electric pickup truck uses a vacuum pump to generate vacuum for the power brakes (and move vents in the HVAC system). It has a pressure switch that turns on the pump when the vacuum drops to under 15 inHg and turns it off once the pump has raised the vacuum to 25 inHg. The current system has a small 3″ by 1.5″ PVC cylinder as the vacuum reservoir. As soon as you press the brake the pump turns back on, and cycles on and off relatively frequently. I wanted a larger vacuum reservoir so that the duty cycle on the pump would be longer (it would stay on longer, but also stay off longer) and so that even when the vacuum drops to 15 inHg I could still operate the brakes several more times while the vacuum pump was working.
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A Month Driving the Electric Truck

Watt hour per miles driven over our first 20 charges. Averaging around 710 Wh per mile

We have driven our electric S-10 pickup for a month now, putting 187 miles on it and charging it 20 times (averaging around 9 miles per charge). We used around 132 Kwh of electricity to re-charge it (13% of our total household electricity usage for the month) which cost around $13.20 (or 7 cents per mile). The truck is averaging around 700-720 Wh of power per mile driven. If we were paying $3.75 per gallon of gas and getting 20mpg on an equivalent vehicle, the energy price comparable MPG rating of the truck would be 54mpg. The chart above displays the watt/hour per mile calculation for our first 20 charges. As you can see, the numbers jump around depending upon where we drive, what route we take, what speed we drive, etc. We are also in the process of breaking in a new pack of batteries).
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Traction Battery Volt Meter

A red LED volt meter mounted in the dash

The S-10 electric pickup has an analog voltage gauge in the instrument cluster which is useful to get a general picture of how the battery voltage is changing while you drive, but hard to read with any real accuracy. The previous owner had also wired 12v and 120v wires into the center of the dash in an attempt to set up a digital volt meter on the traction batteries. But the 12v supply burnt out his volt meter, and when I purchased the truck it was dead. I bought a 200 volt LED panel display from a surplus supply house for $12 to replace it. I also added a 1A fuse on the 120v supply line in the engine compartment as a safety feature.
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S-10 Electric Pickup

Side view of the Electric S-10 Pickup
Our new commuter vehicle (and my new toy) is a second-hand electric conversion S-10 pickup. We purchased it from the original converter after he had upgraded to a Ford Ranger EV.

It is powered by 20 six-volt lead acid (PbA) golf cart batteries wired in series, giving a nominal 120 volt system. Sixteen of the batteries are stored in boxes under the tilt-up pickup bed. The remaining four batteries are under the hood, where the radiator would be on an internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicle. It can be charged via either the QuickCharge 120V charger plugged into a standard 15Amp outlet (which takes 13 hours) or the Zivan NG3 high frequency 240V charger (which takes 7 hours and a 240 volt outlet).

16 six volt batteries under the tilt-bed of the pickup
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Building an OTA HDTV Antenna

Screws and Washers holding coat hanger parts to the board
This week I built a TV antenna. Previously, we had been using a commercially purchased Radio Shack antenna with a built in pre-amplifier, but we left it mounted on the (tall, exterior) wall of our previous house. We had planned on purchasing a new antenna to place in our attic when I found plans on the Internet for how to make your own out of coat hangers and scrap wood. (Really, what CAN’T you find plans for on the Internet?) Continue reading

DragonCon 2010 Mysterio Pictures

In the Parade, I was wearing the plastic “safety” globe. Visibility out of it was about 2%. I basically followed a succession of brightly colored costumes (Storm’s white hair, wonder woman’s bright red cape, Zoo Hercules’ gold reflective bandoleer, etc).
Mysterio in DragonCon2010 parade

mysterio in DragonCon 2010 parade

Photo by Kirk Damato.

Mysterio in DragonCon 2010 parade - photo by Amber Croxall

Photo by Amber Croxall

The photos below show the glass sphere which I wore in more static settings indoors and for photo-shoots. Thanks to Chris, Becky and the photographers named in the captions for sending me photos from Saturday and Sunday! Continue reading

Backflip wifi tether with Ubuntu Linux

After gaining root access on my Motorola Backflip phone, I was (eventually) able to get wifi tethering working using the Barnacle application (version 0.5.1).

In Barnacle, I have “skip wpa_supplicant” checked, the channel set to six (6), and DHCP set up to use the OpenDNS DNS server (208.67.222.222) although the DNS server option may not be needed. (I had to also manually specify the DNS server IP on my client anyways.)

I had to pull some tricks on the client side (Ubuntu Linux) to make everything work. Specifically, setting MTU size to 1250 and setting up my own DNS name server IP.
The script I use to make this all work with ad-hoc networking on Ubuntu is as follows: Continue reading