BEME Erod remote control repair (crystal oscillator replacement)

Electronics inside a remote control

I dropped the remote control for my E-Rod electrically operated drapes, and it stopped controlling the receiver/drape unit. I had another remote that still worked, so I knew the problem was with the remote, and not the drape motor unit. The IR transmitters were still flashing a signal, and on the oscilloscope the signal looked reasonable, but the carrier frequency was at 62.7 kHz.

I eventually traced the problem to the yellow square package, a crystal oscillator, and bought a 10-pack of them for $5 online (with a month wait time….). Replacing the oscillator restored the carrier frequency to 38 kHz and restored proper operation of the remote.

 

Ego Battery degradation over time (2 year mark)

I’ve been tracking how much power it takes to charge my Ego batteries since I purchased them. I’m using this as a stand in for how much capacity they retain over time. You should know that I have a large lawn (in Florida) and cycle these batteries at least once a week (more in the summer) so these batteries are getting more of a workout than if you had a small city lot that you could mow a few times before charging the battery.

I have two 7.5 AH batteries (one bought before the other). They took 410 watt hours to recharge when new. After one year of usage, the remaining capacity was (78% 320 w/h and 82% 340 w/h) on the two batteries. My older battery has two years of use, and has 70% of it’s original capacity (290 w/h).   So it looks like they drop between 18 and 22% of their capacity the first year, and an additional 8% the 2nd year for a total loss of 30% of their capacity after the 2nd year of usage. [The batteries have a 3 year warranty.]

30% capacity loss in 2 years

Update: See my new post at the 3 year mark for the 2014 battery (and 2 year mark for the 2018 battery).

Thermoelectric cooler mark 3.5

I took my version 3 prototype ThermoElectric cooler and removed two of the four TEC modules, bypassing them in the cooling loop, to reduce the power draw.

Running two TEC’s at 12v each (in parallel, a sort of “turbo” mode) the whole system draws 136 watts. When I put the TEC’s in series (6v each, or “eco” mode) the whole systems draws 46 watts. This breaks down at 5 watts for the power supply, 11 watts for the fans & pump, and 30 watts for the two TEC’s.

Later on, I also moved the fans to 6v each and reduced the total power draw to 41 watts (the fans went down 5 watts when I reduced their voltage by half).

I’m using a cheap low-efficiency 12v power supply that draws 5 watts all on it’s own just idle, so we could get a 4 watt savings by running if off of a nicer power supply, or a 5 watt savings by running it from a 12v battery directly.

The cooling power is significantly reduced from the 4 TEC version, but I think that having a “turbo/eco” switch that would allow the unit to go from 12v operation on the TEC’s and fans to 6v operation (jumping from 136 watts down to 41 watts) would give the user flexibility to either cool things down when excess power is available, or just maintain temperature when operating off of battery power.   However, even in “eco” mode it takes almost a kWh per day of operation.   But at least it outperforms the Chefman TEC.

 

 

Alpicool C15 12 volt car fridge / freezer review

I bought an Alpicool C15 model compressor/refrigerant based car refrigerator/freezer for a project. They also have a C20 model which is exactly the same but has a “bump up” in the lid for 20 liters of capacity. I paid $145 with a coupon, and I’ve seen them retail around $190. Here is my Amazon Affiliate   link: https://amzn.to/2rwJvD2

Quick summary of the review video above:   15L interior capacity, can get the interior down to at least -12C, chills four 12oz cans to 3.5C in 4.5 hours, freezes 2 lbs of water in 12 hours, draws up to 50 watts continuous when the compressor is running (never goes above 150 watts on startup so can be ran by my Ego Nexus Escape). It averages 13 watts draw over a 24 hour period at 0 deg C without opening the lid (310 watt/hrs in a day). When set to -20 deg C it draws an average of 25.4 watts per hour (610 watt/hrs in a day).

The amount of insulation is relatively minimal (especially if you are using it as a freezer) but the internal volume / total surface area is small enough that it really doesn’t take up that much power as a refrigerator. Its all plastic construction and friction fit lid is cheap (reflecting the price I paid) but serviceable.   My unit was damaged in shipping and had some plastic break off the side, but still functioned fine. As I plan on voiding the warranty and most of the exterior case in my project, I didn’t mind, but a normal customer would have shipped it back to Amazon for a replacement.

Video on how to use the control panel (including converting the display to Fahrenheit) is here:

Ego Nexus Escape – What I wish I knew before buying

I bought the Ego Nexus escape because Ego gave me a $25 off coupon and I have a lot of Ego batteries from my yard equiptment. I wouldn’t pay full price for it.

 

The Nexus escape is a   small 150 watt (max) SQUARE WAVE inverter that plugs into the top of Ego Arc Lithium batteries, that also provides 2 USB charging ports. Ego Nexus Escape (PAD1500) Amazon (Affiliate) link: https://amzn.to/2Z6qKBn

Great for charging USB devices, or powering small loads where the square wave power isn’t an issue (motors on fans buzz, but most power supplies such as for laptops, routers, etc work fine). The 150 watt inverter will shut down if the load ever goes above 150 watts, as it has zero surge capability over the listed 150 watts.

It will also go into a “low power shutdown” mode to save power if the draw is less than 4 watts, so it is not suitable for running very small loads unattended.

As a small 150 watt inverter, it is serviceable for most small loads, but I really wish it had either a modified sine wave or true sine wave output to make it compatible with more AC devices. Also, having a 300 watt surge capacity for a second or two would have made it much more usable.

Overall, I think the Ego Nexus Power Station is a much better (if much more expensive) product as it has a true sine wave power output, and a lot more capacity.

Whole house solar system: Solar-thermal pool heater, or electric?

Question: “We’re getting whole house solar soon. We are wondering if we should get an electric or solar pool heater?”

To answer this question, I want to keep my terminology clear. I will use “solar-thermal panels” to refer to the rubber roof-mounted panels that have pool water pumped through them for traditional solar pool heaters. I will use “PV solar panels” to refer to photovoltaic panels that generate electricity directly from sunlight. Any pool heater powered by electricity must be a heat pump pool heater (a electric resistance heating element is incredibly inefficient when compared to a heat pump).

There are a lot of trade-offs involved in this question.

First efficiency: Using the sun’s heat to directly heat pool water (as with pumping pool water through a rubber solar-thermal collector on your roof) is about 80% efficient (80% of sunlight is converted to heat in the water). Commercial PV solar panels are only 18-22% efficient converting sunlight to electricity. If you use a restive water heater, this gives you 18-22% efficiency overall, which is bad. HOWEVER, if you use a heat pump electric pool heater, the heat pump uses that 18-22% electricity to move heat from the air into your pool with a 3-4X advantage, so your overall heating efficiency is actually directly comparable to a solar-thermal water heater! [The same math applies to domestic electric hot water heating…hybrid heat pump water heaters are good, traditional resistance elements are not a very efficient use of electricity.]

Second, cost: A heat pump pool heater costs money. So do the extra PV solar panels to power it (plus the up-sized inverter as your PV solar system is larger). I suspect the extra money will be slightly more than a $5,000 solar-thermal water heater arrangement, but it may not be TOO much more. It all comes down to how many kWh you plan on spending to heat your pool. (A heat pump pool heater takes as much power as a whole house AC, it’s basically an AC unit in reverse…pulling heat from the outside air and putting it into your pool.) So this is not an inconsiderable cost.

A 100,000 BTU heat pump pool heater uses 5,000 watts (5kW) when running, or 5kWh per hour of heating. If you wanted to run your pool heater for 5-6 hours every day, you would need to add 5kWh of PV panels to your roof to offset this electric usage. At $2.40 per watt installed, an extra 5,000 watts of PV panels would cost you $12,000!

However, if you only run the pool heater for a few months out of the year and are on a net-metering arrangement, you need to install fewer PV panels, as PV panels produce power all year round. So if you plan on running your pool heater for 5 hours a day only 4 months out of the year, you could get away with installing only 1/3 as many PV panels, or 1.6kW at a cost of $4,000. [You may also have to buy a $2,500 heat pump pool heater if you don’t have one already.]

Third, complexity: A solar-thermal hot water heater requires extra pipes from your pool pump up to the panels on the roof of your house and has a lot of potential leak points. Extra PV solar panels on your roof and a larger inverter don’t add much to the complexity of a whole house PV solar system, just makes it larger, and PV panels have very minimal maintenance issues in the future. An electric heat pump pool heater does require plumbing into your pool pump, but is physically located with the rest of the pool pump equipment, and doesn’t require water pipes up to the roof. Keeping the “roof system” separated from the pool system by electric wires as opposed to water pipes makes “plumbing” easier.

Fourth, roof space: Do you have enough roof space to support all the energy you want to use? Solar-thermal pool heating panels and PV panels used with an electric heat pump pool heater use roughly the same roof surface area for the same amount of heat in the pool. The PV solar panels cost more than rubber pool solar-thermal heat collectors, but have to be replaced less frequently. Heating a pool takes a lot of energy regardless of if you are doing it via photovoltaic or solar-thermal collection. Check with your solar installer to see if you have enough sun facing roof space for everything you want to do.

Fifth, ease of use / flexibility: An electric pool heater allows you to heat the pool whenever you want (cloudy weather, nights). You may need to pay the utility company for your extra use of electricity in bad solar weather, but you have the option to do that if you want. If you install extra PV solar panels to support an electric pool heater, you have the option to NOT run the pool heater and bank extra electricity, which can be used by any electric appliance in the house or an electric vehicle.

[A solar-thermal pool heater prevents you from spending extra money heating your pool at nights or in cloudy weather, but may slightly increase the power needed to run your pool pump unless you actively switch the roof mounted solar heat collectors out of the system when not needed.]

Of course, the cheapest option is to not heat your pool at all.

DIY Thermo-Electric Cooler prototype

I have been playing around with building a DIY Thermo-Electric cooler. Yes, I know the TEC’s are horribly inefficient when compared to a compressor based refrigerator. And I know you can buy basic TEC micro-fridges for $20-$50 online.   We have a camping van that has a small odd sized hole that doesn’t quite fit any of the commercially available car/van coolers, so I’m investigating building my own. This post will discuss prototype number 3.

Continue reading

Moto X4 power button failure

I’ve had a Moto X4 phone since November of 2018 (I bought it new from Google Fi) and recently the power button started failing intermittently.   Reading forums on the internet, having power buttons fail on phones is now a “thing”. Apparently phone manufacturers are cheeping out on the physical buttons to save money? Seems like a bad part to have fail.

Continue reading